Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.
However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.
It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.
Giornalista freelance con 10 anni di esperienza, specializzata in divulgazione scientifica e innovazione tecnologica.